Operations Manual
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OPERATIONS - MANUAL
DUAL RADON COUNTING SYSTEM
MODEL AC/DC-DRC-MK 10-2
120/230 Vac 50-60Hz
0.5/0.25Amp
& 12-24Vdc

Revised: March 7, 2010

INTRODUCTION

Please read Operating Manual completely!!
Possible Shock Risk When Handling HV Circuit Cards, see 'Maintenance Section'!

The photo multipliers are either Electron Tube, Inc.#9266KB-19's, Hamamatsu #R2154-02's, or BURLE #S83019F's and graphs of the individual plateaus are enclosed. The PM counting chambers are constructed of black anodized aluminum with PVC caps, and contain the photo multiplier tubes. They are plugged directly into the preamplifiers and are left permanently mounted within the front panel. Caution should be observed in inserting cells into the chambers. In no case should cells be dropped onto the face of the photo multipliers as breakage could result. Lite-Tite hoods are provided and should be used to reduce phosphor light retention and to prevent daylight from reaching the photo multiplier tubes. You will find the, POWER CORDS, the FIELD CELL EXTENSION CAPS and the TEST/REPAIR KIT inside the PLASTIC UTILITY BOX attached inside the removable case lid.

TURN ON PROCEDURE

Depending on whether you will operate this system from 12 - 24Volt DC power or from 120/240 Vac lab power, you will connect either the yellow 12 - 24Volt DC cable or the conventional 120/240 Volt AC power cable.

When operating from 120/240Vac power, the AC/DC switch should be in the AC position, the yellow power cord disconnected and the AC power cord connected. You may then operate the system from the AC power center switch.

When operating from 12 - 24Volts DC, the AC/DC switch should be in the DC position, the yellow power cord attached to the DC input and the AC power center cord unplugged. There is a 3 Amp diode and fuse in series with the DC input power, this protects the system if an error is made connecting the battery leads, and no harm will come to the system.

A) In the DC mode the AC/DC switch acts as your POWER on/off switch.

B) In the AC mode the AC Power Center input switch acts as your POWER on/off switch.

The AC input center contains:

1) The AC input power connector
2) The (2) fuses, 1/4Amp(240Vac)--1/2 Amp(120Vac)(located inside input power module, and accessed by prying tab carefully upward)(See inside manual)
3) The AC power cord
4) The AC power switch
5) Choose 120 to 240 Vac by selecting Voltages with internal jumpers, after removing electronics package from case.
The DC input contains:

1) The yellow power input cord
2) The DC power connector and cap
3) The AC/DC power switch
4) The DC 2 Amp fuse
5) 3 Amp. 50 Vdc Diode, protects unit from connecting battery backwards.

In either mode turn on the appropriate power switch. The LCD displays activate on both counters and timers, and may display a zero or a random number, or be counting. The high voltage power supplies should indicate operation by a red LED on each supply. The LCD time of day/date clock on the front panel is battery operated, and is for your convenience and an additional time/date reference. Press the appropriate buttons to set the LCD time of day clock, the instructions are in the back of this manual. The high voltage power supplies were set to the photo multiplier plateau's at the factory, however, you might want to check them and possibly plateau them with your own standard. In any case you need only to reset and turn on the counter/timer functions by pressing the START, STOP, RESET switches. Graphs of the PM tube plateaus are included, as well as the settings of the High Voltage adjust, ten turn potentiometers.

PHOTO MULTIPLIER PLATEAU SETTING

The plateau setting was obtained by placing a cell with a high count rate, (250 - 500 CPM), in the counting chamber and taking counts for 1 - 5 minute intervals at increasing voltage levels. To do this place the high count rate cell in the chamber. Start the Counter/Timer and gradually increase the HV by turning the multi-turn dial from 0 to the point at which the counter just starts to count. At that point, begin a plot of dial setting verses total counts for 1 - 5 minute intervals, increasing the dial setting (HV) by .10 units on the dial until you can ascertain the flat portion of the plateau, (For ETI-9266KB-19, or Hamamatsu R2154-02, 1250 Vdc max) and between 3 to 5.5 and seldom ever past 6.00 on the HV dial.). Be careful you do not allow the photo multiplier to go into discharge. NOTE: (You can tell that you are nearing discharge when the count rate rises quite rapidly (200 or more counts) with each .10 increase of the dial setting----Stop increasing HV, reducing the HV dial setting). The plateau operating point will be just past the knee of the curve and just past the beginning of the flat portion of the plateau. Do not allow light to enter the photomultiplier, especially when the unit is operating, be careful!

Caution: Never let ambient light reach the photomultiplier tubes when the High Voltage is operating. The Photomultiplier is an extremely sensitive light detector and should not be operated under daylight or room lighting levels. Even when non-operational, exposure to daylight or normal lighting levels causes photocathode excitation.
The user must be aware that extended operation at high values of average anode current can lead to physical and /or chemical changes at the surface of the dynodes, particularly those located at the output end of the multiplier chain. This results in modification of the secondary emission properties of these surfaces and hence in changes in overall multiplier gain, which may be irreversible.

PHOTOMULTIPLIER PLOT EXAMPLE

Photomultiplier Radon Plot

OPERATION THEORY

Alpha particles produced from 222Rn decay and Beta's from two of its daughters, produce scintillation's in the phosphorous coating on the inside of the counting cell. The phosphor emits photons of light which excite the photo cathode located inside the vacuum envelope of the PM tube. Photoelectrons are emitted and directed by an appropriate electric field to an electrode or "dynode" within the envelope. A numner of secondary electrons are emitted at this dynode for each impinging primary photoelectron. These secondary electrons in turn are directed to a second dynode and so on until a final gain of perhaps 106 is achieved. The electrons from the last dynode are collected by the anode which provides the signal current output pulse. The preamp amplifies the anode pulse and the output from the preamp is a fast rise-time long tailed positive pulse. This preamp has been modified as per schematic shown, so that the current drawn, at 2 KV is only 1 MA.

PHOTOMULTIPLIER OPERATION

Graphic of Photomultiplier Operation

This positive pulse is fed into the amplifier input stage of the counter, which is a high precision differential comparator. This comparator has a threshold control, factory adjusted, to eliminate noise and spurious pulses below 250 millivolts. This comparators output is a 5 volt logic pulse, shaped by nand gates, and fed into one input of another nand gate. The other input of this nand gate is connected to a JK flipflop, that acts as the (start/stop) switch. The pulse is then cleaned up and sent to a pulse stretcher to increase the pulse width, which is a requirement of the counting module. This pulse is sent to the LCD pulse Counter/Timer display module. The timer and pulse counter differ only because pulses are from an EPSON Xtal controlled clock chip, instead of the PM tube preamp.

The timer is crystal controlled for accuracy and is not affected by incoming line frequency variations. Timers time in hundredths of minutes to a maximum of 999999.99 minutes. The counters are set to reject pulses less than 250 mv and resolve single pulses up to counting rates of 5000 pulse/sec.

A fan is provided for system thermal stability, when operating on 120-240Vac. The fan and AC power supply are out of the circuit, when operating on 12-24 VDC. The fan filter should be cleaned every few months. The Filter holder is removable and lifts off the front panel. You may clean the filter using a small vacuum to remove dust from the insert, or replace it with a new foam or fiber filter, found in stores for a window air conditioner,(cut to size). Input power is transient protected by a 70 joule 6000amp metal oxide varistor and an EMI/RFI Filter.

MAINTENANCE

CAUTION : Remember that the High Voltage Circuit Cards operate up to 2000Vdc, and the HV capacitors can retain that charge for a considerable time. Any maintenance should be proceeded by removing the power cord from the AC or DC line. With the unit turned off let 5 minutes elapse until any disassembly occurs. This allows the Preamp's bleeder string to discharge the HV Circuit Card HV Supplies, and the associated capacitors, after which the HV circuit cards may be handled without fear of shock. No maintenance should be done with any input power (AC or DC) connected.

Remove the (4 white nylon acorn nuts) or the (4 black nylon slotted nuts) and washers on the Plexiglas front panel. Lift off the panel. Circuit cards may be removed by inserting the card puller tool provided. Insert tool in center hole in board, from bottom up. Place one hand on the front panel, across the circuit card opening, forming a bridge above the board, with the puller on the index finger of the other hand, extend the thumb across the index finger as you close the hand. Placing the thumb on the back of the bridged hand as a fulcrum pull up on the board and rock side to side until the board pulls loose. All of the integrated circuits are socketed and are replaced with ease. The entire electronics package may be removed from the case by removing the (12) outermost panel screws and then, using the center handle, lift out the electronics package. Readjustment of the threshold settings on the counters require special equipment and careful technique and should be done only at the factory.

Two adjustable high voltage supplies provide PM tube alpha plateau voltage operation. The supplies are identical and have a range of 600 to 2000 volts DC positive. The range trim pot, (R5) (2kW) on the HV schematic) is factory set to provide a range of 600-1800 volts using a 10 turn potentiometer(R3)(5kW). Refer to the plateau graphs to set up the counter for operation or to readjust the Plateaus and HV supplies, if necessary, and usually only when the Photo multiplier tubes age. In Alpha counting the average life of an operational Photo multiplier tube is approximately four (4) years. As the Photo multiplier tube ages the knee of the plateau moves upward towards a higher voltage, as you increase this counting voltage to remain on the plateau, you also increase electronic noise. You then have to play the "game" of signal to noise ratio (High Electronic background noise, no cell in chamber) and when it becomes too noisy the Photo multiplier tubes have to be replaced. Be reminded that no two Photo multiplier tubes are identical, indeed they all have different plateaus, different dark currents (backgrounds), and different efficiencies. The power used to operate the HV LED pilot lights is taken from the programmed side of the HV power supply system. A quick check that the HV is operating properly is to look at the pilot lights when increasing the HV adjust upwards from its lowest setting. You should be able to see discernible differences in LED brightness when increasing the HV ten turn dial from 0.00 to 5.00 etc. Several different PM tubes such as the (ETI #9266KB-19, Hamamatsu #R2154-02, or BURLE #S83019F) are available, and all are direct replacements. However, since all tubes operate at different plateau settings, a new plateau should be run and a change in the adjustment of the 10 turn dial will be necessary.

On the front of each HV board is a HV test connector and a switch for disabling the HV power supply. To check the stability of the HV setting use a DVM with a range of 1500 VDC, and using the supplied cable attach the DVM to the HV test jacks. Be careful not to short the output of the HV Supply.

CAUTION : If you attach the DVM to the test jack with the HV on, you may trigger the OVP (over voltage protector) on the HV supply. The pilot may go out, however, you can reset the HV by turning the HV power switch to OFF and then back to ON again. It is possible to damage your test meter by attaching it with the High-Voltage turned on. As you can see it is best to connect the DVM prior to turning on the HV supply.

A Clients Question: - One of our detectors shows a decrease in efficiency with time when counting standards. Before opening the counter, I wondered if you might have suggestions on what to look for. Switching the PMT's would tell me if it is the PMT that has gone bad but I was unable to find instructions on how to do this. Is this something we could do here and if so would it need to be done under specific lighting conditions.

Caution: In no case should you let either daylight or roomlight into the counting chambers with the HV turned ON.

There are several troubleshooting possibilities:

1) Re-Plateau the PMT
There is a chance that you need to re-plateau the PMT. Those instructions are in this manual. When you re-plateau, if you notice that your HV setting is on, or below the knee of the curve, then that may be your problem and increasing your HV slightly will correct this. Be reminded that as your tubes age, you have to set your voltage higher (just above the knee) to keep on the plateau, and your electronic noise increases with increasing HV. When this situation becomes too noisy you have to replace the PMT tube.

2) Switch the PMT's, etc.
Turn the unit off and let it stand for 5 minutes. This provides safe handling of the components and enables the Hi-Voltage to decay through the bleeder resistors in the pre-amps. You may then unplug the chambers from the unit, using a steady upward pressure pull the chamber up from the unit rotating it like you would use a Mortar & Pestle, with a grinding motion. Of course instead of pushing down, pull up. When the tube comes free, look at the tube base and notice that there is a key-way that needs to match the socket on the pre-amp. Now exchange them, being careful to align the key-way. See if the problem switches with them...Be reminded that you have to switch the voltage dial settings on the HV power supplies, because the HV is adjusted to the plateau value for each tube. Remember you have two identical channels that have a common Low Voltage AC input Power Supply, and this is the first step in switching components. This procedure checks out the PMT...however there may also be a problem in the pre-amp. In the most recent units, I have slightly lengthened the cables connecting the pre-amps, so that you may swap the pre-amp cables without physically exchanging the pre-amps. If you notice that the "good tube" counts OK in the switched position, after correctly adjusting the HV to that tube, then your whole system is OK and the problem is the PMT that was in question. If you find you have one channel that checks out OK, then it makes sense that the Low Voltage AC input Power Supply, which is common to both channels, is also OK. With two identical channels, using a little common sense and by switching elements, you can figure out just what part, board, tube, pre-amp or HV supply is the culprit. I would suggest that you mark the tubes, boards, pre-amps etc., so that you know what's where, and nothing gets mixed up while switching components, otherwise your whole troubleshooting job crumbles, and you will never know for sure where you started.

Replacing the Photomultiplier Tube

Duplicate the way the tubes were prepared, before installation into the chambers. CAUTION: DO NOT STRETCH THE BLACK ELECTRICAL TAPE. If you do then it will slowly creep and may slide over the end of the Phototube.

Start with the new tube, and the roll of tape in your hand. With the end half way down the tube and at a 45 degree angle bring it in a gradule arc, up and around the tube, close to the top of the PM face about 1/32", then go down around the tube and using about 1/2" overwrap, wrap the tube towards the base, covering about 1/2" of the base where the base and glass join, and leaving the rest of the base bare.

Take the white or black tube protector ring and place it onto the tube. If it fits loose, wrap some tape around the end of the tube to make a slightly snug fit. Then take 8 - 3" strips of tape and place them vertically on the side of the tube protector and down onto the tape on the tube, so that they hold the tube protector in place. Run a piece of tape around the tube protector to keep the 8 strip ends in place. Place the 2 "O" rings on the tube by rolling them over the pins and base of the PM tube. Now just below the tube protector base run tape around and build up a shoulder so that you can roll one of the "O" rings onto the shoulder and gradually make a very slightly snug fit "test fit" into the chamber. (Using this method you are gradually adjusting the diameter of the "O" rings). Now with the upper "O" ring fit adjusted and in place, go to the base end of the PM tube and do the same thing. Test the fit into the chamber, it should be just slightly snug, and so that the "O" rings do not roll off the tape. The "O" rings should be trapped between and next to the tube base and the tube protector base. Take a measurement between the 2 "O" rings and cut a piece of corrugated cardboard to fit between them and long enough to go around the tube. You want about an eighth of an inch space between the ends of the cardboard. Crinkle the corrugations so that it fits smoothly around the tube. Take a roll of black tape and start from one end of the cardboard and go around the middle, another turn and move to the upper end and so on for 3 turns. The last 6" of tape should not be stretched, just laid down to finish the wrap on the cardboard.

Now coat the "O" rings with a light coating of silicone grease or release agent so that they will slide into the chamber easily. Do not use automotive grease, because it will deteriorate the "O" rings. Push the tube into the cleaned up chamber until 3/16" to 1/4" of the base is visible. Take a tube of black silicone sealant that you can get in any auto parts or hardware store, and seal the end of the chamber/base joint. After I finish running a bead around the joint I usually smooth out the silicone with "saliva" on my finger. Keep it wet otherwise you will make a mess. Water does not work as well. Let dry overnight.


STATIC

Static can play a part in activating the phosphor yielding spurious counts seen by the photomultiplier and therefore the counter. I do know that static charges come and go with low humidity. It can be controlled by using a good static spray. If it seems that you might have a static problem, and are getting spurious counts coming into the counter if you touch the case, try this solution. Purchase a good static spray at one of the chemical spray manufacturers. EN/Stat-#966 from Miller-Stephenson Chemecial Co. Inc, Danbury, CT, U.S.A. (Phone 203-743-4447)(Fax: 203-791-8702). They have offices overseas in France, Germany, Great Britain, and Italy. You may also be able to find a static spray at a TV supply store, however, I know that this one works and does not cause problems. (One client suggested that he used a static spray used by DEC on computer CRT screens).
Remove the foam from the top of the chamber cap and spray both the foam and the inside and outside of the PVC chamber cap. Let the foam and the PVC chamber cap dry thoroughly and then reassemble. Don't forget to spray the chamber extension and its foam insert as well. This spray job will last you for a long time, you may only have to do this once or twice a year, however long it takes to wear off the coating, through handling. Make sure that the foam is not holding the chamber cap from completely seating on to the aluminum lower section. If the foam is keeping the PVC cap from seating you may let in some light and you might have to either adjust the foam thickness by re-seating or carefully trimming the foam. Please inspect your chamber and cap fit before you make modifications.

FOAM INSERTS

The cap comes with a foam insert pushed up inside to the top of the cap. This is to keep the cell from rattling in the chamber. This rattling, might have something to do with the spurious counts. The other piece of foam with the two holes is for use with longer field cells that have two connectors on the top and is then used only with the field extension. If you intend to do any field work then you would have to get longer field cells from Storm King Associates and would place the field cell extension onto the chamber and then the chamber cap, after changing the foam inserts. I supply the field extensions for the chamber as an accomodation, because I am not sure how different researchers want to use their equipment.

You will find included in the documentation marked schematics of the preamp, counters, timer, and power supplies. Also included are various spare parts. For additional parts contact Applied Techniques Co. 560 S. Sunnydale Way, Hendersonville, North Carolina 28792-7808 - Phone - 828-696-9510.
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